If your opener grinds, hesitates, or reverses partway up before finishing the cycle, that's usually gear wear talking, not a wiring issue. A remote that only works from six inches away, or an opener that runs the motor but the trolley doesn't move, points to the same worn gear or a stripped drive component. Homes in this area built around the 1990 median are hitting the age where original units - especially anything that predates rolling-code remotes - start showing exactly this pattern.
A light that flickers on activation but the door doesn't move at all often means the capacitor's gone, a cheaper fix than a full replacement. If the whole unit is silent - no light, no hum, nothing - check the breaker and the wall switch before assuming the motor's dead; it's a five-minute check that saves a wasted call.